100$ Dation 16HP MTD 990 "Mud Train"

It won't be a problem until the welds break because you can't weld cast iron.

RichieRichOverdrive wrote:

I cannot stress this enough. The flywheel key is nothing more than an alignment tool. It does not stop the flywheel from turning. It's not supposed to.

The thing stopping the flywheel from turning is the torque on the flywheel nut. If the flywheel nut is not properly torqued, then the flywheel will spin and shear the key.

If you put a steel key on that crank you will tear the keyway out of that crank, and potentially crack the flywheel as well.

I could not agree more with this post....

RockeyDA wrote:

its been dealt with and wont be a problem any more. the motors never ran better. i do on the other hand need to see if i can find a new belt for the startor. or remove the starter and make it were i can pull start, witch i would like more. well id really like both.

Why not adding a 2nd Pulley so U can pull and electric start it?? On the side of the Driveshaft should be some space I guess

SebastianAlbrecht wrote:

RockeyDA wrote:

its been dealt with and wont be a problem any more. the motors never ran better. i do on the other hand need to see if i can find a new belt for the startor. or remove the starter and make it were i can pull start, witch i would like more. well id really like both.

Why not adding a 2nd Pulley so U can pull and electric start it?? On the side of the Driveshaft should be some space I guess

I'm sure he can remove the belt on the starter generator and pull start off of that if he needs to do so.

Double W Cross Ranch wrote:

SebastianAlbrecht wrote:

RockeyDA wrote:

its been dealt with and wont be a problem any more. the motors never ran better. i do on the other hand need to see if i can find a new belt for the startor. or remove the starter and make it were i can pull start, witch i would like more. well id really like both.

Why not adding a 2nd Pulley so U can pull and electric start it?? On the side of the Driveshaft should be some space I guess

I'm sure he can remove the belt on the starter generator and pull start off of that if he needs to do so.

I wouldn't pull the belt all the time when I need to pull start it..............
too lazy for lol

Double W Cross Ranch wrote:

It won't be a problem until the welds break because you can't weld cast iron.

if i cant weld cast iron then how come my welded on fins have not blown off the fly wheel yet? i mean if i cant weld cast iron then theirs nothing to hold them on right? i think you just want things to break because i did not go about it the "proper" way.

im always going to be doing what works no matter how ghetto.

Double W Cross Ranch wrote:

SebastianAlbrecht wrote:

RockeyDA wrote:

its been dealt with and wont be a problem any more. the motors never ran better. i do on the other hand need to see if i can find a new belt for the startor. or remove the starter and make it were i can pull start, witch i would like more. well id really like both.

Why not adding a 2nd Pulley so U can pull and electric start it?? On the side of the Driveshaft should be some space I guess

I'm sure he can remove the belt on the starter generator and pull start off of that if he needs to do so.

the problem is that lovely grill blocks my acsses. i was thinking of cutting a slit in the pully on the drive shaft and seeing if i can pull start with that, if not then replacing with bigger pully.

RockeyDA wrote:

Double W Cross Ranch wrote:

SebastianAlbrecht wrote:

Why not adding a 2nd Pulley so U can pull and electric start it?? On the side of the Driveshaft should be some space I guess

I'm sure he can remove the belt on the starter generator and pull start off of that if he needs to do so.

the problem is that lovely grill blocks my acsses. i was thinking of cutting a slit in the pully on the drive shaft and seeing if i can pull start with that, if not then replacing with bigger pully.

then save up for a 10HP Diesel and swap it in, it has a recoil and electric start and is not too expensive

thoes things are like 400$ for a cheepo chinese one. why would i change motors anyways? its not like this one is bogging down and feels like i needs more power.

anyways, if this motor gets beyond easy reapir, im going to try and get a new connecting rod and piston rings for that 12hp cast iron and BAM can still even use same starter.... witch i need to modify the bracket mines on, or add a tensioner as the blt has stretched to far.

to every one, i got some epic plans for this tractor, come summer time. i want to install a car ATL under the hood, i plan on having 0AWG running to a bus bar near the hitch plate. im going to make the fenders oversized so i can install speakers in them  i already have. i got a head unit i want to install, and im putting my 15" 700wrms alpne on the trailer i plan on expending.

my tractor is gonna have a better sound system than any one could throw together spending a grand at walmart. using mostly what i have. might need diffrent head unit, will need more ply wood, more brace material, more sheat metal, and possible a different head unit if i dont like this one.

its the slowest tractor, might as well make it the funest.

OHHH!!! I LOVE THE PLAN WITH THE SOUND SYSTEM!!

I might toss a car radio and some speakers into the Widebody or Dynamark.... but need a QUIET EXHAUST mode then to disengage the STRAIGHT PIPES when I wanna listen music on the mower LOL

ok, this thing has been awesome for reliability and quick starting so far. the tie rod end will not stay on, thinking i should maby but that nub off and weld a bolt on, then use a nut and some angle iron for steering. right now i got rope and wire holding it down and it only kinda works.

Hey DA tie rod are easy to fix. notch a washer and weld it. once i get home ill find they pictures of the one i did, they never popped out again

Just peen the end over with a hammer

RichieRichOverdrive wrote:

Just peen the end over with a hammer

i tired that, the end its to expended, it dont click in to place at all.

Ummm, I'm thinking the best solution is to actually replace the ends, LOL.

Or you could even fab up a whole new tie rod a bit beefier than the factory one. That's the option I would go with.

AllisKidD21 wrote:

Ummm, I'm thinking the best solution is to actually replace the ends, LOL.

Or you could even fab up a whole new tie rod a bit beefier than the factory one. That's the option I would go with.

maby, bit i would not know were to buy new ends and there probboly out of my price range. what im probboly going to do is take some scrap angle iron, do the bolt and hole and lock nut thing on 1 side, then just chop the endd off the rod and weld the iron in place. the otherside is still holding, if it goes i can do same thing on other side.

$7 out of your price range?! come on

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-4-RH-5-16-24-Threads-x-5-16-24-stud-Male-or-Female-Heim-Joint-Rod-End/323649247967?hash=item4b5aff9adf:g:FJAAAOSwe9Fb8HWa:rk:120

and you live in the US so you can't complain about shipping

Buck wrote:

Hey DA tie rod are easy to fix. notch a washer and weld it. once i get home ill find they pictures of the one i did, they never popped out again

here you go, i got it off someone on here it works really well

well, i rigged it up using rope and springs. it held for a few weeks, when i want over a snow bank a few days ago i snapped the threaded part of the tie rod clean off. whole thing is just getting replace with angle iron.

Crazy_Carl wrote:

$7 out of your price range?! come on

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-4-RH-5-16-24-Threads-x-5-16-24-stud-Male-or-Female-Heim-Joint-Rod-End/323649247967?hash=item4b5aff9adf:g:FJAAAOSwe9Fb8HWa:rk:12:pf:0

and you live in the US so you can't complain about shipping

id still have to weld on a bolt and nut for that. might as well just get the job done for good, if i need to adjust down the road, cut and weld time, infact my now current plan is to 2 pices of angle iron overlaping a bit and vice grips to hole it to gether in the end, when i got steering aligned im going to weld the 2 pices together.

That just sounds greasy to me

ATLTF is back, good, i dont remember if i posted my tie rod snapping, but its back better than ever now!

when your trying to get 3 poeple to TSC but dads been drinking.

RockeyDA wrote:

ATLTF is back, good, ...

?  ATLTF is back?  Did it go somewhere?

RockeyDA wrote:

when your trying to get 3 poeple to TSC but dads been drinking.

Sometimes you got to do what you got to do.