100$ Dation 16HP MTD 990 "Mud Train"

DAMIT DAMIT DAMIT, ALREADY SHEARD KEYSTOCK ON THE FLY WHEEL ESDFDVDVF. IM SO NOT HAPPY

ok, i was up till 2am light niht working on it, now curretn problm is i cant get it to run right, took me a while to find out it was the thrttle bouncing on the carb xsetp. might steal the spring from the 12hp and buy a replacement off ebay.

That's sounds like a nightmare to troubleshoot but good job finding it.

im uploading a clip from a trail ride ile post here befroe i go to bed, but i think im leaking hydro fluid and motor oil. Dfently loosing motor oil. a 5hr ride put me from full on oil to just blow the minimum line.

this websites censorsing is out of hand, i cant post the video link beacase its "watch?v= v e f y n T S F a g U "  i added spaces so you can see the link. if i actualy posed it it comes out like this
[youtube]i'm insecure[/youtube]



Edited for your pleasure. [some words are a bit broad, I have been fixing as they pop up] -MightyRaze

I added your video and fixed the issue.  I also left your original message text alone.

the small 16"ers dig into the mud, and the rear tires doesn't seem to have enough traction, they have like a turf tire tread pattern

Your trans is a Hydro.  I bet it was getting a bit overheated there at the end, maybe also a little moisture in the fluid when it was hot. That could have been the cause of the slowdown and maybe harder to move.

MightyRaze wrote:

I added your video and fixed the issue.  I also left your original message text alone.

thanks, i apritate it.

SebastianAlbrecht wrote:

the small 16"ers dig into the mud, and the rear tires doesn't seem to have enough traction, they have like a turf tire tread pattern

yeah, thoes 16" tiers suck for steering in mud, and thoes 35" tiers suck for gripping in the mud. long video with more problems coming soon. but this big tractor is a joke compared to dinky.

think i should cut every other tread out like people do to turf savors?

MightyRaze wrote:

Your trans is a Hydro.  I bet it was getting a bit overheated there at the end, maybe also a little moisture in the fluid when it was hot. That could have been the cause of the slowdown and maybe harder to move.

probboly, but i also think i might not have enough fluid in it, on the drive there after i basically left my yard i was going in pulses. when i was heading back, when i stopped at the gas station i noticed oil dripping in the front and back of the tractor, back side seems to be comming from were that hydric line goes to the blade deck, front was coming from the motor, motor went from topped off on oil to just blow the minimum fill line. i think my red RTV crank case gasket failed there.

btw when i got out of that mud hole, (did not think to touch trans) the pump was hot, but not somthing i cold not hold hot.

when i eddit the video you guys will see it as soon as its done, theres even fun stuff like me having the camra rolling while getting partaly run off by the 990.

the motor on this is a keystock sheering mashine. this tractor is dead till i find stronger keystock, have stronger key stock made, or just weld the damn fly wheel on as a last resort.

So what I have done to prevent a shearing was make sure the crank shaft keyway is tight, check the flywheel and make sure there's no slop, then I put a thin layer of in weld on the mating surfaces and torqued that "Female dog "down. Hadn't had any issues till the block blew up.

I mean, if the flywheel is out of balance (which it will be), it's no mystery that it's gonna shear the key constantly no matter what ya do. What did you torque the flywheel nut to?

AllisKidD21 wrote:

I mean, if the flywheel is out of balance (which it will be), it's no mystery that it's gonna shear the key constantly no matter what ya do. What did you torque the flywheel nut to?

it shears when it misfires usealy on a start. its never sheard while running. and torqe? i just use a pipe wrench and bash the handle with a hammer untill it stopps getting tighter. i cant turn it by hand and even get it snug.

RockeyDA wrote:

i just use a pipe wrench and bash the handle with a hammer untill it stopps getting tighter.

........Okay.......


We have our problem, and now we have our cause.

Your threads are most likely messed up. It should go on smooth until snug.

Rockey, that aint the conventional way to tighten a flywheel nut. Lol

ok, this things alive agin, i welded the fly wheel on and i messed with the governor its it has way more speed and power and dose not bogg down any more because the governor properly brings the throttle up under a load.

Wonder how long steel welded to cast iron with a chinese welder on an off balance flywheel will last.

Double W Cross Ranch wrote:

Wonder how long steel welded to cast iron with a chinese welder on an off balance flywheel will last.

i would bet that im done with fly wheel problems for the rest of the motors life unless for some reson i need to take it off. you said i could not weld the fins back on the fly wheel, and not one i have welded on has came back off.

also i played with the govonr setup and that part of it runs GREAT now. i have so much power. at the moment that motor is my best running single and it runs better than it has ever ran since i had it. i dont even have to choke it to start it with the governor working right.

oh, and both the motor and the trans oil leak has slowed down immensely since i started using the thing alot. to the point i have gone 2 weeks and haven't noticed the motor or trans oil level drop.

doing some late night dumpster diving with my friend, the trash cart, and the mud train.

I cannot stress this enough. The flywheel key is nothing more than an alignment tool. It does not stop the flywheel from turning. It's not supposed to.

The thing stopping the flywheel from turning is the torque on the flywheel nut. If the flywheel nut is not properly torqued, then the flywheel will spin and shear the key.

If you put a steel key on that crank you will tear the keyway out of that crank, and potentially crack the flywheel as well.

RichieRichOverdrive wrote:

I cannot stress this enough. The flywheel key is nothing more than an alignment tool. It does not stop the flywheel from turning. It's not supposed to.

The thing stopping the flywheel from turning is the torque on the flywheel nut. If the flywheel nut is not properly torqued, then the flywheel will spin and shear the key.

If you put a steel key on that crank you will tear the keyway out of that crank, and potentially crack the flywheel as well.

its been dealt with and wont be a problem any more. the motors never ran better. i do on the other hand need to see if i can find a new belt for the startor. or remove the starter and make it were i can pull start, witch i would like more. well id really like both.

It won't be a problem until the welds break because you can't weld cast iron.