uhh, no it wont, right now i have to choose, poor grip, or poor slip. there is not enough pully action going on. if i add a cluch pully in the back onlong side the one in the front, i can have a belt loose enough to still shift gears, but i cold still get it to get tight, and adding one in the rear wold mean i can get more belt to wrap arround my highest slip point, the transaxle pully.
HELP, were can i find pistion rings and a head gasket for this the cast iron 12hp briggs that was on the ford? i have a project i want to use the motor on but i want it to have some power.
AllisKidD21 Moderator
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Go to your local small engine shop with some parts numbers. Even Napa might have something, I think they carry some rebuild kits for the old K Series Kohlers so they might have some Briggs stuff.
"This'll either wake you up or put you to sleep forever!"- Red Green "Whatever you do you should do right, even if it's something wrong." - Hank Hill
so i had some more brain storming on what i want to do with this project in 2019. i was thinking, you know rear suspension with out overly lifting this thing sounds like a challenge on a challenge, what if i extended the front less, and the back some and instead of trying to lock my 2300 on the inside, do it on the outside to a solid axel on bearing held in with lock collars, attached with sprockets, and i cold have a spring based tensenor to handle the travel. and since i have got so good about welding conduit, i was thinking of making a roll cage that i can mount thoes KC lights all over mostly for looks, and having better night driving. i dont plan on rolling this one. i might make more body pannels by welding hundreds of washers together be case i want this to be really different from anything else.
what do you guys think of my ideah? i want to take this thing somewhere between unstoppable tank and unstoppable dune buggy
darkside0914 Established Member
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the external locker sounds like a good idea, then there's no need to crack open the transaxle, and if you do break it it'll be easier to fix, the washer idea sounds like a lot of tedious work, but might be worth it to get the unique look you want and you could use different sized washers to do some kind of pattern with them,
Crazy_Carl Veteran Member
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I think the external locker would be nice for a 4x6. It kinda sounds like you want to turn this into a stretched "mud limo" Lol. How about locking the 2300 internally and pushing the front end forward 6" to accomadate some bigger tires. 23" ag tires would look great on the front of this. Have you checked out Mr. Modified's Baja Sears build? I think the washers washers welded together would be cool for a belt guard or grille.
RockeyDA Established Member
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OMG, i just figured out why the ford whillers cluch sucks, its my belt guides, just bolts going in the block, they hold the belt to close to the motor pully, i need to have my guides prevent it from sliding to the left or right, but able to get an inch or 2 away from the pully. i cant believe it took me this long to realize that.
RockeyDA Established Member
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well, dinky and the ford went over the same curb with the same sized front wheels, dinky was fine, the ford not so much.
guess i need to upgrade the ford to a stamped steel front end. but in all seriousness it was clear the axel was broke before this and some one welded a pice of steel on 1 side of it to hold it together... for some reason they did not bother actually trying to weld around the crack.
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Just make a couple of repair plates from aprox. 3/8 thick steel bars and bolt the axle back together sandwhiching the two broken halves between the two steel bars.
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At least put it in an oven at 450 for a while before you weld it. There's absolutely no hope if you don't preheat. If you were closer I'd do it for you, dad has a stick welder and high nickel rod that is just sitting and soaking up moisture.
Carl's idea is much better, some 3/8" plate and 5/8"-3/4" bolts would hold it at least for a while.
At least put it in an oven at 450 for a while before you weld it. There's absolutely no hope if you don't preheat. If you were closer I'd do it for you, dad has a stick welder and high nickel rod that is just sitting and soaking up moisture.
Carl's idea is much better, some 3/8" plate and 5/8"-3/4" bolts would hold it at least for a while.
good ideah, but i still wanna try welding and adding some braces and welding them. ile slam over some curbs neer the house to test. if it dont work, i try your ideah.
TheBeal Veteran Member
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SPOILER it did not work to will, it stuck, but it was a weak surface stick kinda deal. round 2 i will try drilling and bolting. hofully cast iron is easier to drill threw than angle iron.
RockeyDA Established Member
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i got rained out half way threw but im back to trying to fix the front end, even using a firends nice drill gun, my cheepo bits could not go thre the cast iron, i would make a little progress, but was also chewing up my bit.
so were WELDING AGIN. but this time im welding with the knolage i only can make surface welds, no penetration limited stenth. so im using angle iron is bracing, and i will drawl a pic of how im putting them in, but im using the angle iron to hold things together, and welds to keep them in place, and even hold 2 pices together. TO MS PAINT!