-= Li'l Red =-

Video update on Red!


++missing video++

How much was that battery box?

Found it on ebay $20.

Looking great. Coming together well.

AllisKidD21 wrote:

Nice job on the rack and pinion mount Mighty!

How thick is the wall on the tubing you used for the wishbone? Just wondering how strong it would be on that part between the support tubes and the heim joint. Also it would be beneficial to have the support tubes welded out further on the axle. It's always best to have suspension links mounted as close to the spindle knuckles as possible, to allow for the most support and least amount of stress on the links.

Just my way of thinking though, haha. I'm sure it'll be fine the way you have it. Keep up the good work!

Time to revisit one of your concerns @AllisKidD21.  Thank you for pointing it out.

The strength of the section headed to the heim.  Well, that will not be a concern.  I mocked it up last night and the monolink is way too long.  The heim will be located around the bend.  So, about 70% of that part will be chopped off!  I also do not need the bend.

Woah, lil red has changed a whole lot since i last got on. Looking good mighty! Paint scheme is really interesting.

Thanks Rich!

Did a little with Red today.  Got my universal shaft in today.  Looks like it will slip straight onto the end of the stock steering shaft.  That makes things a little easier.  I took the gear off the end and cut a notch around just below the frame mount and reinstalled the snap ring there.  I also ran bolts through the frame brace and used locking washers to connect the bottom a bit more securely than before.



I also re-threaded the dash plate and ran bolts up there too instead of the self tappers.



Red is starting to come together.



I did weld the stub onto the rack for the universal.  I do think it will hit after all.  The more I look at the front monolink the more I do not like it.  I will probably cut it off after next week and redo it.

I did it this evening.  I chopped it off.  Starting over.  Still need my braces.



Braces will come in where the X's are on the axle.  Not sure if you can see them that well.

I can see the X's.

Where'd you get those labels for the dash? I did mine with a paint marker... looks like scribbles LOL.

Label maker with clear tape.  LOL

Haha, you mean like this....



I was gonna use this but $30 for the tape.... I can do better than that.

Mine is the one next to the clutch pedal.  Not sure how much tape is for it.  I do not remember it being that much for mine.




EDIT: Looked it up.  It's like $5 for mine.

I label all my switches with a sharpie...... Not the most professional look though. Plus I have to re-do it every now and then as the weather wears it off.

Finally got a chance to go all the way through this thread. Really liking the progress you've made. The best way to not burn through thin metal is practice and patience. Sometimes you only want to weld an inch at a time and then stop and wait til you can't see the metal glowing through your helmet lens and then go another inch, stop, etc. Once you've done this long enough you'll get a feel(or an ear) for when to start and stop. Even with my mig I do this when welding really thin stuff like propane cans or exhausts. You'll even get the hang of filling holes eventually. It's all practice.

I usually don't label my stuff. Don't want it to be any easier for someone to steal it

Well, I have sooooo many switches on the MM and I haven't driven it at all with all the switches, so it's a bit hard to figure out what is what. Anyway, I guess that's why off is on and on is off for the kill... Oh yeah, I fixed that too LOL.

Anyhow, sorry for the thread jack.

RichieRichOverdrive wrote:

Finally got a chance to go all the way through this thread. Really liking the progress you've made. The best way to not burn through thin metal is practice and patience. Sometimes you only want to weld an inch at a time and then stop and wait til you can't see the metal glowing through your helmet lens and then go another inch, stop, etc. Once you've done this long enough you'll get a feel(or an ear) for when to start and stop. Even with my mig I do this when welding really thin stuff like propane cans or exhausts. You'll even get the hang of filling holes eventually. It's all practice.

I usually don't label my stuff. Don't want it to be any easier for someone to steal it

Thanks for the info... I made lots of progress this week in the welding dept.  I finally got some thinner rods and using it on the lower amp B setting of my welder.  Doesn't seem to want to melt the metal but still getting a good bond.

Back from vacation. Did a little work with the monolink.

It looks a lot shorter than the last one. That will affect wheelbase won’t it? Or are you mounting it farther forward on the frame to make up for it?

I see you have adjustability built in, how much is there?

Yeah I needed it a bit shorter.  Its's a bit stronger now too. 1" tube down the middle and 3/4" tube on the sides. The back link has about 5 inches of adjustment.

Yeah I'd say it looks stronger now!

What's the steering gonna be like with the support tubes out so far though, will the tires hit?

AllisKidD21 wrote:

Yeah I'd say it looks stronger now!

What's the steering gonna be like with the support tubes out so far though, will the tires hit?

Ugh.... didn't even think of that. I hope not.

Ah, well sorry to be the bringer of bad news there, haha. Just didn't wanna you to run into big troubles down the road.

Well son-of-a-gun.....

It hits.



back to the choppin' block.

I just haven't been thinking it through I guess. My mind just hasn't been 100% into building right now. Guess I was forcing it.

Sorry about your troubles mighty. At least this one shouldn't be too hard of a fix.

You should find one of those HE emblems from a maytag washer or dryer to put on this thing

I'm going to dig out the other Murray axle I have and start over.

Well, I decided to give this one one more go.  Hopefully 3rd time is a charm!  LOL  Doesn't hit either.



Almost screwed it up.  My welder is from my dad.  He got it long ago.  Long story short, it started not working well so my dad opened it up and cleaned it out.  When he put it back together, somehow the dial became backwards.  Lower on the dial became hotter welds.  And on top of that, the locking mechanism broke so you have to bungee strap it in the place you want it.  While welding the pipe, the dial got out of place and turned up the heat.  I melted a hole the size of a quarter in the pipe.  Not sure if you can see it on the left of that image.  I had to weld in a patch of metal.  Seems to be pretty structural sound.  Later this week I'll get to work on the rack and get this thing installed.