Full suspension Gokart, welding tipps?

Hello,
I wanna build a full suspension kart. I was thinking about using 30x20x3mm Reactangle tubing for the main frame. I have a MIG welder and a electrode welder, Im gonna use the MIG (inert gas welding machine) one. I've already made a plan with a 3d software (its not finished yet):


Cars and Cameras inspired me with their yard dart build:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zADdNoG7-uM

I have already bought most of the Parts (engine[200cc honda GX clone], tires, axle.....) for it. I also bought 2 metres of the 20x30x3mm steel. This week i want to start building the frame. Do you guys have any tipps how i should weld the Square tubing? Should i weld it point after point or should i got full power and send it? I want the Frame to last a long time, I also dont want to have to reweld parts of the frame taht often, if ever, cause that makes it even weaker on that point of the frame. How should i weld the sqare/rectangle tubing so the frame wont crack under load. (im also thinking about putting the engine onto rubber enigne mounts that stop vibrations a bit more)
I would really appreciate some tipps guys, Thanks!

hmm, i guess the members of this forum can't weld, or why is there no awnser to my question?

Most of our members that weld by trade have moved on.   Many that are left are welding as a hobby.

Also, building a go-kart from scratch isn't really what we are all about.  Mostly modding lawn and garden tractors for fun here.

DIYGokarts is a forum that many of the older members here were dual members.  The guys over there may be of more technical help in building a gokart from scratch.

https://www.diygokarts.com/

@MightyRaze Thanks for your reply. I know that this forum isnt about Karts, i just hoped to get an awnser to my question. I dont want to build my kart from scratch, Im buying bran new parts, just bought an axle kit for 200€..... Im gonna ask on DIYGokarts for some help then

There's several of us here that weld although I'm not sure anyone is a professional welder (speak up if so!).

For 3mil steel I'd be inclinded to use the MIG as you can control the heat better and are less likely to blow holes in it. Once you have it completely tacked up then you should be fine to "send it" as you say, you won't really have to worry about heat distortion like you would with welding panels.

There's pleanty of go kart builds to read through and get some ideas on other forums, I'm pretty sure I've even seen plans at one time!

@Brianator I've weldet 2mm steel with our electrode welder in the past, did not blew holes in it. I can weld a bit, with MIG and Electrode. Im gonna look for other kart Plans on this Forum now, Thanks for your reply!

When creating a frame like that, what one should most keep in mind is squareness and straightness. The heating and cooling of welding will always warp your weldment, there is no way around that, but it can be minimized. The best ways to do this include clamping the weldment down so the weld cant "pull" the material together when it cools, and another best practice is to "tack" the weldment on all sides before fully welding, to keep seams closed or pieces in place while another side of it is fully welded. Tacking before fully welding also permits easy cutting of welds to alter the design before it is finalized.

For the state side folks reading, your 3mm steel is roughly 1/8" thick, or almost exactly 11ga. I would use the MIG for this as it is a lot easy to start and stop welding, giving you better control of heat and just reducing general frustration from stuck rods and such.

Hope all of this makes sense. I am a machinist by trade but i do find myself welding often at work and at home, and have dealt with frames like this. Cheers!

@RichieRichOverdrive Yeah, The thing with the "squarness" and the metal warping is a problem i've had in the past.... We have 90° welding magnets that hold the metal together pretty good when welding or planning, they will be a big help for me. Thanks for your tipps, Cheers