New Project. The Colt

As far as the exhaust goes, if you do find it to loud, you can buy a $30 tin can muffler at tsc. That will muffle it so it is not to loud, but it still sounds cool.

Seat and are filter housing Fit with no issues.

The other hood was just to twisted. I raised it in front which allowed it to clear the tank and air filter.

I'm apparently too stupid to figure out a return spring throttle cable setup and it's pissing me off enough I'm about ready to toss this whole project back in the scrap pile I dug it out of.

Easy now! Lol. If that solid cable doesn't move smooth and free in the sheathing then you'll always have an issue, I replace them ASAP when they start giving me trouble.
A strong return spring could be hooked up to the pedal if you're installing one which I assume you are? I see nothing in the pics.

If using a flexible cable, wherever the cable hooks up to the engine is a good spot for a return spring that's strong enough to return the mechanism to idle setting and also something that will return the pedal itself.

I've currently got no cable but have a bicycle brake handle and cable to use.

Almost 100* difference in front vs rear cylinder. Pretty sure that's not supposed to be that way. something else to ignore for the time being.

Check your plugs, one blacker than the other?  Wetter?  It got a china coil on it?  I go through those about one a year.  Running rough?  Seemed good earlier.  Maybe more compression on one side than the other?  I'd still check with plugs first.

MightyRaze wrote:

  I'd still check with plugs first.

I have checked anything. I noticed the difference in color on the new exhaust and thought I'd hit it with a temp gun.

Not uncommon for these to run leaner on one cylinder.  Just how it sits sometimes makes the difference.

PizzaKitty26 wrote:

As far as the exhaust goes, if you do find it to loud, you can buy a $30 tin can muffler at tsc. That will muffle it so it is not to loud, but it still sounds cool.

Been there, done that, it sounds awful lol

Quick drive around the yard (at idle lol). Eyes were watering in the shop . This is a new cheap carb so it may need adjusting. Pulley swap made a big difference but I need to work on a belt guard.

TechnoChicken wrote:

PizzaKitty26 wrote:

As far as the exhaust goes, if you do find it to loud, you can buy a $30 tin can muffler at tsc. That will muffle it so it is not to loud, but it still sounds cool.

Been there, done that, it sounds awful lol

I'm fine with quiet. With a little extending and some weldy weld the muffler off the parts murry fits well. I'll role with the for awhile

Any idea as to what regulator needs to be used to this engine? The one pictured doesn't appear to be it. Like to let smoke out when hooked up.

The yellow wire is the input from the stator, it's a Briggs and Stratton 5/9 amp rectifier/regulator part number 691188 (among other numbers). Really it should be pretty universal

Brianator wrote:

The yellow wire is the input from the stator

That's what I got. This says yellow to the battery?

Really!? Hmmm... conflicting info how unusual...


***EDIT*** This is strait from the B&S alternator repower guide btw.

Brianator wrote:

Really!? Hmmm... conflicting info

***EDIT*** This is strait from the B&S alternator repower guide btw.

Swapped the wires and it does appear to be working. Nice. Next issues is connecting the throttle. Going from cable to hard wire is proving to be difficult. Any kind of crimp is sliding off. the throttle linkage tab on the engine doesn't really have enough meat to drill a bigger hole. I thought about using one of those screw type throttle cable ends.

Good luck drilling it anyhow, it's hardened steel and I personally gave up after 5 mins of trying and went another direction! Lol. Check out what I've done here it might give you ideas even though it's on a Tecumseh. Roper "Offroadster"

Off the top of my head... if I needed to connect a flexible cable to a hard cable using easy to find hardware I would probably use 2 washers, 1 with a hole drilled in it for the hard cable and I'd pinch that Z bend plus the flexible cable between the washers with a bolt. Maybe even with a sliver of aluminum or copper in there to cause binding.

@MightyRaze had a slick setup on the oppy in The Dirty Rat, maybe check that out for more ideas The Dirty Rat (Page 10)

Brianator wrote:

@MightyRaze had a slick setup on the oppy in The Dirty Rat, maybe check that out for more ideas The Dirty Rat (Page 10)

he came off the governer arm. Id prefer not to do that. I want to to put the peddle to the floor and not worry about it.

You can usually use these in place of a hard cable end. Sometimes you gotta bend them open a bit to fit some throttle arms. I use them whenever I can, honestly lol. All of my tractors have had one at some time or another.
Throttle cable clevis

I'm just not happy running a peddle off the governor. Other than that muffler is fitted as well as the belt guide. I'll take it to the shop with a good welder tomorrow and get it welded up.

We talked about me not liking this box several post back but with a seat and mocked up rail I'm almost liking it. oh helmet came in so that's good lol

It's really not a big deal to run it off the governor, you should be able to set the governed maximum engine speed with a stop screw (in fact it should already be set) OR you can run it off the throttle plate where the factory control goes OR do like I did on my tractor as I linked above BUT my setup bypasses the governor so when my dash control is at full speed I can get a few hundred extra rpm with my pedal.

These are your only options as the stock setup path of control is as such: throttle control > throttle plate > governor spring > governor arm > carb butterfly.

Had my first wreck. For some reason the clutch or belt is sticking in reverse. Definitely doesn't make sense. Wh 1. Building 0.

Belt guide fixed the belt slipping. It's done as well as got the muffler all welder up. Rear bumper on and front rock guard bumper slider thing has been started.

I posted on your youtube...

AH, second view of your video. Clutching issue will probably resolve by creating another guide on the top side "under the belt". This will allow the belt to rest on it instead of drooping down coming in contact with the lower belt and also give you slack on the pulleys you need. Look at 0.42 seconds in your video. It almost looked like your upper belt sagged down and snagged your clutch lower pulley. That's what looked like you could not clutch.

Check out @Crazy_Carl's post page 3 post below.
https://www.atltf.com/t6624p50-69-raider-12#118870

Something you can look into.  You are coming along GREAT!  Great job.

MightyRaze wrote:

Check out @Crazy_Carl's post page 3 post below.
https://www.atltf.com/t6624p50-69-raider-12#118870

His looks incredible. As mentioned the the tube. I think its over clutching under heavy brake to the point its making the belt catch and engage on the idler pulley. Easy fix im sure.

I see you still have your parking brake. Your setup is just like mine. Can you take a picture close-up of your brake system area? I have found that what I had was partially wrong and missing the parking brake.

I would really appreciate it. Your rig is turning out great!