'86 Westwood T1200

Thanks. getting back into this hobby. I got the throttle and choke sorted today and welded up a front pulley. Also replaced one of the clutch pulley as it made quite a bad noise and I started to weld up a rear pulley. Going for a 5 inch front and a 4 rear.

Can't wait to see this thing driving around!

Well I got her driving today. Works well but I've got a few issues to iron out.

• Need a stronger clutch spring

• still makes a horrible screeching noise when clutch is engaged that seems to be coming from the front.

Anyone have any ideas on the latter point?

Belt screeching on the engine?

Could you elaborate? I don't really understand what you mean.

sorry, my brain is going every which way today.

You say

@MatthewD wrote:

makes a horrible screeching noise when clutch is engaged

Is it possible that your belt is a little too small? That when you are clutching, the brakes are engaged tranny stopped and nothing back there is turning. Your belt still tight enough that the engine pulley is slipping still trying to engage?, (or need belt guide, unfortunately I cannot see the forum images at work to see if you posted your belt). I'm just grasping at things I have encountered.

When I say 'clutch engaged' I mean the clutch is in the 'out' position i.e not pushed in.

Anyway, I think it is a bad input bushing on the trans. I have a spare trans that I'm gonna grease up and put in for now and later on I'll lock the one that originally came out of the mower.

By the way, this is the tag on the spare trans. Anyone know if this is similar to an 801 peerless?

Could be a bad idler bearing or something against an idler. On MUTT i had an idler bearing lock up and it was spinning on the pressed-in spacer, made a heck of a noise! And I'd imagine that trans is pretty similar, might just be different gearing or different length axles.

@MatthewD wrote:

When I say 'clutch engaged' I mean the clutch is in the 'out' position i.e not pushed in.

Roger that, disreguard previous comments.

Fairly sure it is a trans problem because it nothing else seems to be causing it.

Been using the Westwood quite a bit today, drawing wood etc.




However, I noticed that the belt slips quite a lot in 4/5th gear esp. with a trailer on. I'm just gonna add another idler in to take up the slack.

So added an idler pulley, seems to have solved the slipping issue. Clocked her at 21.37mph today!

Now that I've got her running I've a list of improvements to make

• Fix whining/screeching noise in trans

• New and improved exhaust system

• New front and rear tyres

• Rear bumper (tow point etc)

• Carry box (under seat)

• Maybe a paint job but not sure

Right so, looks like the belt problems are not all solved. I just got the belt on Monday and already it is frayed and has at least 1 split in it. I've done my best to line the pulleys up properly, the only reason I can see is the belt got caught in the lip of one of the idler pulleys. Anyway, I'm gonna let her sit for a while and get some other projects finished up and then I'll get back to wrenching on this mower.

20 or 30 more belt guides and it'll be good. Belt issues are a pain, I can't stand trying to figure them out. 21mph not too bad!

I don't think belt guides are the problem. Would a belt get frayed/split with a few days use if the pulleys were out of line by 1/2, 3/4 inch?

I think I found the problem. The rear pulley still has some sharp edges and worn spots on the pulley face.

I'm gonna get the pulleys more in line, weld up the rear one and run the old belt for a while to see if it does anymore damage.

@MatthewD wrote:

I think I found the problem. The rear pulley still has some sharp edges and worn spots on the pulley face.

I'm gonna get the pulleys more in line, weld up the rear one and run the old belt for a while to see if it does anymore damage.

If you don't mind me asking.... WHAT DID YOU DO TO THAT THING?!?

What? It's not that bad! LOL

The pulley used to be the engine pulley from a AYP mower. When I was cutting it off, I accidentally cut into the surface of the pulley so then I had to weld it up.

It was worth a try!

Yeah

Anyway, from now until the summer I plan on completely finishing this project because it's usually never working.

To-do list
-completely redo the whole belt system. re position clutch pedal and rebuild clutch. new bigger pulleys (have to see what sizes I can find)
-new(ish) front and rear tyres. Ag's rear and knobbies front.
-front and rear bumpers
-dual throttle. courtesy of @RevDogg
-fix fuel leak
-new exhaust
-build up and lock the peerless 832

For what it's worth, if you have a big gap in something that needs to be filled in, slap a piece of copper in there. Weld won't stick to the copper and you can still weld on it to fill in gaps.

I found a 6 1/2 inch pulley that I'm either going to use on the front or rear.

Anywho, been looking at ways and means of locking the 832 trans I have. Opened it up, its design uses the robust diff carrier setup.





Now, after watching all the related vids, I believe the best and safest way to lock a diff is the Doc Locker Weldless 2.0. However, am I right in saying that it won't work (with out modification) on a trans with a diff carrier? Or has anyone modified it to work on a 800 series with a differential carrier?

@MatthewD wrote:

I found a 6 1/2 inch pulley that I'm either going to use on the front or rear.

Anywho, been looking at ways and means of locking the 832 trans I have. Opened it up, its design uses the robust diff carrier setup.





Now, after watching all the related vids, I believe the best and safest way to lock a diff is the Doc Locker Weldless 2.0. However, am I right in saying that it won't work (with out modification) on a trans with a diff carrier? Or has anyone modified it to work on a 800 series with a differential carrier?

@sadeoo7 locked his 801 with a modified version of the Doc locker 2.0. You'll have o check his 12hp Yardman thread. I swear, this is the millionth time in the past week I have had to tell somebody about that

Oops! Forgot about that one Thanks Rich! Now all I gotta do is buy a 3/4 hub and a 3/4 axle.

Time for an update.
Stripped the trans down. Soaking all the parts in paraffin.

Tried to get this update all in one post but I can't seem to get more than 5-10 pics on one post.

Anyway, Since I stubbornly refuse to buy new parts to lock the trans, I found this 'hub' with a 3/4" bore that was originally off a cement poker. Plan is to weld the axle shafts to the hub to make a straight axle. Then weld the pins to the hub and through the hole in the diff carrier. 




Got my ags swapped onto the Westwood rims.





Next thing is to replace the aging cracked turf tyres on the front with a pair of knobby go-kart tyres. Not using the rims as I need them for my go-kart. 
(Note the nail is just temporary so I can move it around the workshop)