73 sears workhorse/mudder

is that a newer sears blade? that's a clean looking grill, this blade is only temp , the front is wore out

@MightyRaze wrote:

Buck Mault wrote:

When I got Frankin Sears a blade came with it, no mounts, and in great shape just like the tractor lol, i build a mount for it, made it so it can hook into the factory rear deck mount.
i dont have a winch yet so its a strong arm lift. and its a workout.

Sears blade is a arm workout too.  Bottom 1/4 flat stock is a necessary upgrade should you find one.  Yours may be sturdier.  

How many tractors do you have?

Buck Mault:
There is the one I have, snow/dozer.  Then there is the other one that looks like



This was just after I cleaned and repainted mine a couple years ago.

Grill, yeah I had to do some work the bottom was busted off,  I still had the busted piece, I mounted a steel brace  in there, screwed it together then hid it with bondo.  LOL  :-)

How many tractors? Double W...

2 Sears Suburbans  75(pictured), 77
4 Sears Craftsmans  74, 90, 94(AWS), 2006
2 Murrays 82(buildoff), 89
1 Troybuilt  can't recall year.

HAHA!

@MightyRaze wrote:

Buck Mault:
There is the one I have, snow/dozer.  Then there is the other one that looks like



This was just after I cleaned and repainted mine a couple years ago.

Grill, yeah I had to do some work the bottom was busted off,  I still had the busted piece, I mounted a steel brace  in there, screwed it together then hid it with bondo.  LOL  :-)

How many tractors? Double W...

2 Sears Suburbans  75(pictured), 77
4 Sears Craftsmans  74, 90, 94(AWS), 2006
2 Murrays 82(buildoff), 89
1 Troybuilt  can't recall year.

HAHA!

that is exactly what im looking for.

really that's the only major thing sears/roper did wrong was the grill

There is a Roper one that is Cast Aluminum I think instead of fiberglass.

@MightyRaze oh Ill have to look into that I know they had the sh*t fiberglass ones to

I see my wheel horse dozer blade is not the only design out there that can be mechanically angled side to side. I'll give you sears guys a point for that lol.

@Buck Mault Nothing wrong with a good arm workout. It will turn you into popeye lol. Looks like you mimicked the way a wheel horse dozer blade connects all the way back to the transaxle. It's a strong design. I'm glad you went that route. The only thing I would add is some gussets where the original plow frame meets that beautiful frame you built so the original mount can't bend either to the left or to the right.

@Crazy_Carl lol it only works out one arm, thanks, it was a hasty build i didnt want to shovel snow, the amount of time i put in that thing i could have shoved the snow muli times and drank beer after. it does swivel left to right i just need to rebuild it

I was using the Tractor around the yard yesterday cleaning up trees and noticed a vibration coming from the engine it was shacking the whole tractor. tighten up the motor mounts but didn't help. i figures the governor let go because it wasent working right before. so I pulled the engine



everything is tight, valves are out a bit and the head gasket was leaking. then i busted off a head bolt

might aswell pull the starter apart and clean it up

good luck getting that both out. Those are a ton of fun. Look at the tapered roller bearing on the crankshaft, never seen that before in a motor.

It's super easy, just use a bolt extractor set. I've done that before, took 10 minutes to fix it.

@Double W Cross Ranch i never had luck with them ill give it a try or just drill it out and keen cert it or he'll coil , i might drill into it and then weld a nut on.

Id weld a washer down first, if you have a thick one, you should be able to get some nice hot welds then weld a nut to the washer. Just dont stick it to the block.

The Tec on my st10 shakes the whole tractor at full rpms. Its pretty intense, but bump it down a little bit its not bad

@TheBeal thats a good idea thanks, but i still cant figure out why i had all that Vibration

Sure thing. Ide probably whack it with a hammer after welding the washer on, and again when the nut is welded on. If you can turn it, might be good to work it back and forth a bit with some liquid wrench.

How is your clutch/pulley? Looks like you got some good mud there. You don't have a bearing going out in the clutch causing it to bounce the belt?

@MightyRaze wrote:

How is your clutch/pulley?  Looks like you got some good mud there.  You don't have a bearing going out in the clutch causing it to bounce the belt?

I'll check that out the belt bounces alittle.

@prancstaman wrote:

@MightyRaze wrote:

Does an old Tecumseh have a compression release of sorts?

On the vertical shaft engines, that have the oil pump driven off the cam. When the engine is not running and no oil pressure, that is when the compression release is on. It is on the cam exhaust lobe. The cam is hollow and a pathway for the oil to the whole engine. When the engine is cranking to start, it dumps compression out the exhaust a few revolutions, enough to get the engine spinning and to fire. when the engine fires, usually when the oil pressure is at max, the easy start rod on the cam lobe disengages and you get full compression. If the engine doesn't fire or start then the easy start won't disengage. The oil pump will only supply enough oil to disengage it when running.

On a horizontal shaft Tecumseh, IDK if it has this setup or a different kind of setup. But does need the rpm of engine running to disengage it, and cranking rpm usually isn't fast enough.

here is the mechanical compression release (MCR) spring loaded and the released by centrifugal force


something got lodged in there

yeah bad scratches, I wonder if the previous owner rain it without an air cleaner, I'd get her bored

That sucks about the cylinder wall. That compression release looks quite a bit like the ACR Kohler had, pretty simple system really haha.

I've seen this happen when guys shove sh*t down there so they can lock it up to pull the flywheel

That release is gone now same as the governor.

not much done, just cleaned it up and starting to go back together

I'm not much of an engine guy other than add fuel vapor, air and spark and watch the boom, but I wonder if rehoning would help that scratch?

Best you could do with a hone would be to just break the glaze off of the bore. Not much you could do otherwise, unless you wanted to go with an oversize piston

ya for now I'm going to run it , the engine 45 years old lol. but once i find a kit i will be rebuilding it