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 Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around

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prancstaman
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PostSubject: Re: Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around   Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 Icon_minitimeTue Oct 20, 2020 12:05 am

@RichieRichOverdrive A couple reasons I wanted a TIG welder. In high school I was taught oxy/acetylene welding, I want to take it to the next level and rekindle those skills. Upgrading my cheap MIG would make to where I can't move it from work sight to work sight when I need it with a bottle on it. Plus I don't make that much money welding stuff for people to justify the heavier and more expensive equipment by keeping it mobile. But I will be upgrading my Harbor Freight MIG with the same kind of rectifier and adding capacitors to it. Make it into a DC MIG welder. Should be a good cheap upgrade. I'll post that here also.
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prancstaman
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PostSubject: Homemade scratch start TIG welder update   Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 Icon_minitimeSun Nov 08, 2020 11:44 pm

Hay people,
Got the TIG welder up and going. Made a permanent place in my basement by a window. The leads are long enough to throw them  out the basement window to weld outside also. I made a stand for the whole setup to fit on.
Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 20201041

Labeled the leads with some tape to just know what's what.
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When hooking up the torch to the buzz box, was not ideal, I cut the power coupler off. I then soldered ring terminals on the torch end, power leads from welder buzz box, and also the power coupler I cut off. Maybe later I will buy the right welder and will need this end to plug in the torch to it. Since all the ends have ring terminals, I can just bolt pieces together for what's needed.
Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 20201044

OK, at this point, I am ready to weld. So, it's been over 30 years since I did any kind of torch welding remotely like this. I was taught oxy/acetylene welding for working on aircraft. Very old school kind of welding taught by an old guy in school. He knew his sh$t. Loved every minute of it. Back then in school, was taught the MIG, and TIG, but only from a book perspective. Was considered an expensive way to do the same thing a set of gas torches did and just did the book learnings of them. School couldn't afford the equipment I guess and was a pretty new way of doing things that the aircraft industry didn't fully trust it as a safe way too, back then, was the impression I got also.

I got to welding, just turned the stuff on and went at it. Used stuff that came with the torch kit. Was a small tungsten rod, 4,5,6 cups, and the coupler stuff to screw it together. Kept blowing the breaker, so I turned the power down some which worked. Was able to lay a couple beads. The filler rod I used was an old spool of solid steel mig wire I bought by mistake 10 years ago, LOL. Cut it too long and got tangled on the ground clamp while I was welding and started glowing and didn't let go in time, LOL. The whole basement stunk up of burnt flesh. OUCH!! Live and learn, I guess.
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But, layed a couple beads none the less. Used a different filler rod too. I used stainless steel lock wire I bought from Harbor Freight.
Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 20201046Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 20201047

Figured I needed more stuff. Kept poppin the breaker, hard to start the arc, and cup seemed too small (#6 cup). They sold a kit for my torch size. 1 bigger cup (#7 cup) different tungsten (red tipped) for steel and in 2 sizes. with the little stuff to make these parts work. Plus othe stuff.
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I needed a bigger tungsten rod for the higher amp welding, which was why I kept poppin the breaker. Bigger cup for more gas coverage at the higher amp setting, Could use a bigger cup like a #8 or #9 but that can wait. The red tip tungsten is for welding steel and stainless steel. The ends are painted for how the tungsten is made for welding the different metals. I fired up the torch and laid a couple beads. The new stuff worked great.
Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 20201050Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 20201051

The learnings is coming back to me, on laying a bead with a torch. Seems about the same for what I remember. The scratch starting sucks but I just need to learn it, for what it is. But the scratch starting is like lighting a stick rod off. I always sucked at that. Keep the tungsten tip pointy and clean, then starting is usually easy. Just about every time you start, need to regrind the tip to start it. My bench grinder seems to be used more now. LOL. I got the upgrades for that in a bag hanging from it, upgrades in a later post, LOL.
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At this point, got the welding somewhat figured out. It's not like the videos you see on You Tube. They leave a lot of learnings out of the videos, even the good videos. They make it out to be very specific on how to TIG weld. If you do it wrong then the weld is bad. Load of crap, this style of welding is more forgiving then what everyone is making it out to be. From what I have done so far, a bad TIG weld is still better then the weld I lay with my Harbor Freight Gasless MIG, LOL. I'll get to the more forgiving part in my next post on this.  

Later......
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MightyRaze
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PostSubject: Re: Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around   Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 Icon_minitimeMon Nov 09, 2020 10:40 am

Nice setup.  YIKES about the fingers!

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prancstaman
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PostSubject: Re: Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around   Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 Icon_minitimeMon Nov 09, 2020 6:35 pm

@MightyRaze Thanks, Only hurt for a minute, well until I washed my hands later. LOL.
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diddie
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PostSubject: Re: Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around   Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 Icon_minitimeMon Nov 09, 2020 9:14 pm

OUCH ! i've had that burn before, but only on two fingers ! you've got me beat lol.
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prancstaman
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PostSubject: Re: Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around   Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 Icon_minitimeTue Nov 10, 2020 4:35 pm

@diddie I learned quick on what not to do, LOL.
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prancstaman
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prancstaman

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PostSubject: Homemade scratch start TIG welder update part 2   Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 Icon_minitimeSun Nov 15, 2020 12:14 am

Hay People,
So, where I left off was that I was ready to start welding with the TIG welder. My original plan was to just get the welder setup whenever, to use it for whatever, but things changed. I think my whole summer changed when we got the second truck. So, to get the welder up and running I figure I could weld the new cats in with it. Figured to be way better to TIG them then to MIG them because of the welding wire (filler rod) being used. The OEM exhaust is stainless steel and I want to keep everything stainless steel, even the welds. Sounds extreme, but living in the snow belt, they just dump salt, beat juice, and that other stuff that is way worse then salt, on the streets. There be piles of it on the side of the road pretty much, along with rusted out mufflers too, lol. I would put a complete exhaust system on my Jeep every 3 years. Is how bad it is here. Stainless steel seems to last the life of the vehicle here but does get pretty rusty but still lasts. Pretty much my goal. LOL.

The cats I used are stainless steel weld in universal cats from Magnaflow. Love there product, got the California cats and Y-pipe on my truck and work great, yes I have checked to make sure with my scanner and have had them off a couple times for other work and inspected them, all is good for 3 years now. I got the weld in cats because of the money. $110 each (X2) compared to $800 for a bolt on Y-pipe. The Y pipe is in perfect condition except for minor rust and dirt, way thick metal as is way heavy duty for what I'm used to. So that's the situation. Figure I give a tool how to use, for this. All vids I seen are you plug it in and go, being very specific with how and why. You got to use this, need to do it that way, can't do this. Not very helpful and costly at the very least. My input will be more forgiving, LOL.

OK. To the job. I slice and dice the Y-pipe up. I took way more pics for reference, for myself. For clock position of the cats (tight fit) O2 holes, stuff like that. I sliced up the cats about 5 inches shorter, to just fit in their places. Very tight fitment, I even had to drill off the heat shields that were on them. The truck has separate heat shields so no worries. LOL.
Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 Inked212

Time to get welding. I use my MIG to tack weld the manifold ends on. I know what I said about the filler rod, regular steel with my MIG. I need something to hold the piping in place to start the TIG welding, they was small tacks in my defense. I'll explain this in a few. Anywho, I got the manifold ends in place where the cats fit in there place, all nice and snug. I lay my first bead with the TIG welder doing a 1 inch section.
Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 20201053

Alot of info here. So, the blue weld is the TIG weld with the stainless steel filler, and the little gray tack weld (see, tiny tack weld, LOL) was the MIG tack weld that is regular steel. You can see the difference in colors. Also, the blue weld don't have too many ripples in the weld, no big deal here. The ripples or stacking dimes is another name for it is not a necessity for a solid weld. The color of the weld, how wide it is, how tall the weld is, the heat marks on the sides of the weld point to a good fusion of the base metal. The ripples that everybody like to see when welding is somewhat cosmetic. The ripples do play their part, but here with welding an exhaust system together off of a 13 year old truck, yah not a necessity. I did good for my first weld of this style of welding.

I continue working my way around the pipe doing 1 inch sections at a time. I'll talk about my torch setup. I'm using a red painted tungsten of 3/32 inch thick with a #7 cup and around 80 amps on the old buzz box. That means, the tungsten with the red paint on it is made with specific alloys with the tungsten metal to be able to weld the stainless steel. There is a rainbow of colors to choose from but this is the color that came with the torch kit I got that would weld the stainless steel. I'm sure there is a better tungsten with a different color for doing this but for now this what I got to do the job. The diameter of the tungsten matters also. I am using a 3/32 inch diameter because of the amperage of welding I am using, I'll probably not use a thicker diameter tungsten which will take more then 100 amps to use. The amp range for the 3/32 inch tungsten is around 70 to 90 amps to use. Playing with the setup of amps being used with this tungsten, lower then 70 amps and I just couldn't strike an arc to weld with. The higher then 90 amp setting would pop the breaker in my fuse box or melt off the pointy tip of the tungsten quick and not strike an arc the second time I use it. The 1/16 inch tungsten did the same thing but at a lower range. The 1/16 inch tungsten liked 50 to 70 amps. Any higher in amps and the tungsten rod be glowing like the inside of a toaster, LOL. Along with dull tip and popping the breaker. Cup size is how much you cover the welded area with the gas to form the arc. Any kind of air that gets to the arc will be a bright light through the helmet when looking at the arc. Not good, air melts stuff quick. And remember to turn the gas on when starting to weld and turn it off when done welding, simple as it gets with that part. The tungsten tip needs to be pointy because electricity likes pointy things to jump off of to get to the other side. So sharpening the tungsten to a point on a bench grinder is key and you will be doing it a lot with a scratch start TIG welder. While welding and your shaky hand dips the tip in the melted puddle is bad too. Need to grind the metal off down to the tungsten to be able to stick another arc. No big deal but time consuming to do because you take the torch apart to do this and have to reset it up to start again. You get a lot of practice doing this and you get quick at is too.

Another section done. Beveled the pipe. A nice blue finish.
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This shows a completed cat welded to the manifold side of piping. Note the 2 welds side by side. One weld is the factory weld probably done with a fancy MIG using stainless steel wire. The other weld is mine with using safety wire as a filler rod. They both look the same. Note the color of both of the welds, both are blue. The rainbow color I see of other people welding stainless, yup not here. Blue is the color here.
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Got both of the manifold sides welded on and looking good. I also seen in videos that when welding pipe or tubing, you fill the pipe or tubing with the gas also while welding it. I never had a problem with not doing that. Welded up easy and looks good to me.
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I mounted the cats in the truck. The rest of the piping for the Y-pipe needs to tacked in place onto the cats, so the whole Y-pipe will bolt to the truck with everything lining up on all ends. I use my MIG for this part also. A couple good tack welds here and there, alittle grinding and cutting to make everything snug as best as I can. I then pull the whole thing out without breaking any tack welds (not easy) and hang it in my basement off the rafters to finish welding the whole Y-pipe together. Here I show a part of the piping with a big gap, I cut off a piece to fill in the gap from a piece of scrap from one of the pieces from what I cut off the Y-pipe. A hard thing to do when TIG welding is to fill in gaps. A small gap is easy enough to do like a butt weld with an ideal gap to do it but an excessive gap between 2 pieces is really not doable unless you lay an additional piece of filler in the gap to take up the space which will hold the melted puddle in place. Otherwise the melted puddle will fall through and make a hole. The piece I made to cover the gap so welding it up would be just welding a lap joint basically.
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Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 20201059

Finished outcome. Not too bad, sticks out the bottom about an inch or so more as compared to the original Y-pipe. Hay, the computer says they are good and the check engine light is off. The only thing that matters.
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I'll talk about the tack welds I did with my MIG. Not too big of a tack weld. So when I was TIG welding the pieces together, I just welded right over the tack welds. Since stainless steel is made from regular steel, when I welded over the tack welds, this melted the tack welds into the puddle of stainless steel and mixed with the stainless steel. So the regular steel tacks was turned into stainless steel when I welded over them. No big deal. Things happen a little slower for this style of welding, and is way easier to control the metal. You can weld stainless steel with regular steel (My MIG weld) and have good fusion. Or, weld regular steel with stainless steel and have good fusion. Or an oddball mix of the 2 and still have good fusion. You can do this with a MIG and is limited to what you can do but you get better results with a TIG. Easier to do with a TIG because when you weld you have a puddle of molten metal right there and you add whatever as fill. Learn a little metallurgy and you got a very mini metal foundry. I probably used 3 different types of stainless steels on this exhaust system to give an idea what I'm talking about.

I'll talk about the filler rod I used. I used .041 inch diameter stainless steel safety wire. Not the intended use for this. It is used to safety wire bolts together so they don't loosen in aircraft, Loctite is the cheaper equivalent in automotive use. No clue why Harbor Freight has the stuff but they do so I bought it, LOL. Using this wire was just an easy way to use stainless steel filler welding rods. Was cheaper to use also, only by a few dollars per pound though. The diameter was too small. While I was using the wire it would use a lot and use it up quick, being so thin of a diameter. To fix this problem, I twisted up 2 pieces to use for welding. Worked great. To twist it up, took 2 pieces and clamped them in a vise, the other end went in a cordless drill chuck. Then just twisted the 2 together with the cordless drill to a stiff winding.
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For other projects, I got like a million steel coat hangers. Just clean the coating off and good to use. Be good for welding steel plate together.

As for the tank of gas, the 100% argon gas in a 4 foot tank. It was at 2000 psi when I started (full tank), when I got done the tank was at 1400 psi. No clue what that means but the tank lasted for 1 project with some left over.

One more thing to mention. I would have paid the money for the whole Y-pipe with cats from Magnaflow for $800. But think for a minute. I paid $250 for the weld in cats, which saved me $550. The whole TIG setup costed me $450. I still saved money and got a welder out of it. Win, win.

Pretty much it for now. Got an upgrade to do already. More on that later. Later..............
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prancstaman
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prancstaman

Join date : 2015-02-02
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PostSubject: The smallest welding table made from trash   Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 Icon_minitimeSun Nov 22, 2020 9:51 pm

Hay People,
This project was not planned when I was out in the yard cleaning. Was cleaning along the fence and came across my wife's nephew's junk that he had left to rot in my yard. Great, more junk in my yard and it's not even mine. He left a set of those side steps from his conversion van next to my fence by the garbage cans. One side busted off so he pulled them both off. I ripped the metal framing off the plastic steps, busted them up and finally threw the stuff away. Saved the metal and after looking at it, figured I can make a small metal table from the stuff.
Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 20201112
Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 20201113

Wide C-channel, brackets, and hangers, oh my. I slice up the C-channel for the table top and lay back in the pile. The top right where I am pointing to is the only piece of metal I threw away. I don't need all the pieces of metal either. I'll use some for the table and the rest gets saved for whatever.
Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 20201114

Plans change, sometimes in the middle of a build. I planned on using all this stuff for the table top but wasn't needed. Plus, for some reason this metal was a pain to weld. Even after the cleaning prep.
Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 20201115

So, I weld the table together with just one center support. After fiddling with it, seemed pretty strong. So I left it like that. You can also see what wasn't used. I left spaces in between the C-channel so I can fit clamps in there. Should work, I guess, I haven't tried that part yet, LOL.
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Next is the center leg. It will telescope from 30 inches to over 4 feet high.
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For the telescoping feature to work, drilled 2 holes, welded nuts on for bolts to tighten up on inside pole. Then welded handles on bolts. Pretty simple.
Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 20201119Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 20201118

For the base of this little welding table, I got a brake drum from a Dodge pickup. Those things are pretty big and heavy, LOL. Will do nicely. I weld the bottom leg on it.
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There's my welding table, made from trash.
Completely down.
Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 20201122

Completely up.
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A comparison to what I used for welding that exhaust up on, and what I have now. No more catching the table on fire now.
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This project took a little over 3 hours on last weekend. Paves the way for the next upgrade for the TIG welder. That will be a pedal. Just for on and off, no amp control. Just need to stop the arc clean, so there won't be a bubble hole at the end of the weld. Here's what will be used for that. More junk laying around. Range wire and a foot push solenoid switch off of a riding mower, LOL.
Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 20201126

OK, Later.
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prancstaman
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prancstaman

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PostSubject: Grinder upgrades   Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 Icon_minitimeSat Dec 19, 2020 5:13 pm

Hay People,
Time to do a few upgrades to the little grinder I made.

First upgrade is from a fault in the design. Looky at the pic shows that when I grind something, all the debree gets flung straight down, right into the electric motor. Not good.
Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 20201127

You see the gray dust on the housing, that is the dust from the stone of the grinding wheel plus the metal from what I was grinding also. That stuff will short out the motor, since the motor has holes in the case for cooling and is how the dust gets inside. Blowing it out now and then just delays the shorting out part when it is this bad.
Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 20201128

I remounted the motor from behind. Out of the path of the particulates coming off the wheel and getting thrown straight down. This is an almost complete fix for the issue. Later on I will make new mounts for the motor since the belt alignment is off now, with a motor shield to cover the holes so the particulates have no chance of getting into the motor.
Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 20201129Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 20201130

OK, this next one is the shaft of the grinder itself. I had the shaft mounted in the holder wrong. Figured this out when I was taking the stones off. Rooky mistake, but hay, the time I used it the thing work great, LOL. OK, the mistake was, the shaft when I put it in the holder, the threads were going the wrong way. When you put pressure on the grinding stones and if the stones slip on the shaft the nuts would come loose. Good thing I didn't put too much force on it, could have come undone, well maybe, LOL. It would have just slipped on the shaft and been more annoying then anything, doesn't spin fast enough to be any kind of dangerous, thank god.

OK, for the shaft threads. Pic, I do think that the pic has the threads in the right orientation to where if the grinding stones slip then the nuts that hold the stones on tighten up. To know by just doing the tightening would be the wrench would be moving upward on both sides to tighten the nuts onto the stones. The stones always spin downwards to throw the debree down towards the ground (always). So the right side has the regular threads on the shaft and the left side has the backwards or lefthanded threads (always).
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Now, onto the upgrades. I'd like oilers for the shaft instead of grease. The holes for the grease fittings I took out are 1/4 inch holes. I got some tubing to shove in the holes and bend up. The tubing would dump all the oil in at once, so I shove a Q-tip in the tubes to act as a wick. The wick touches the shaft but holds the oil till the shaft spins and rubs the oil on while spinning slowly and stops when the shaft stops. For the most part any ways. Just top off the tubes now and then to keep it going. Spins real smooth when the shaft is oiled.
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Next upgrade will be a shroud for both wheels. Yah, having it on just one wheel seems eye catching dangerous for the whole idea. I mentioned just covering up one side in an earlier post, after using it yah, bad idea. The shroud will cover both sides. No tool holders though, Don't see a need for them right now, maybe later.

For the shroud I use the rear fender from the mini bike. Pretty tough of a shape so I think 1 mounting spot would do. I need to clearance for the handle bars a bit. Keep the fender tight against the bars when mounted.
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Next upgrade is a light that turns on when you turn on the switch for the grinder, turns off when you turn off the grinder. I got the stuff for rewiring a lamp with a couple LED bulbs for the socket. Don't want too much power going to the bulb to bog down the motor. They run sorta cool too so it won't melt the plastic light housing. I use the headlight from the mini bike for the light housing.
Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 20201211Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 20201210

I gut the light, take the lens out and leave it off since it is faded beyond repair. Jam the socket holder into the lens to hold the bulb. Run the wiring through the light housing and tie a knot so no tugging rips it out. Then the fitting for the flexible steel wire covering. I shove 3 coat hanger wires into the flexible covering because it was wobbly to stiffen it up and stay put to aim the light. The flexible covering is not working too good, might switch to conduit later on, maybe.
Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 20201212Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 20201213

Connect the light to the box and wire it in.
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Still not done but yah. Oilers work great for the shaft. Still need to fix belt alignment which will be making new mounts for the motor. And I don't know about the flexible light, got to use the grinder too see. Is kinda wobbly to get it to stay in place still. So, more to come on this tool.

Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 20201216
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prancstaman
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PostSubject: Metal cutting bandsaw (the start of it) part1   Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 Icon_minitimeSun Jan 03, 2021 9:46 pm

Hay People,
A start of a new project. I need a metal cutting bandsaw. I'm not paying a bunch of money for something I have to rebuild because all I can afford would probably be a beat to hell one that is past it's time of working. I'll just build one from scratch, LOL. At least building it from scratch I know everything will work and won't be hard to replace a broken piece when it gets to that point. Plus, the expectations of the tool would be met without a dought. I'll probably be beating the crap out of this one, no dought there.

OK, I'll talk about what I want from this tool. The frame needs to be real rigid, simple drive wheel, wide table area, tilting table is a maybe. RPM's need to be around 200 from what I gather. Should be able to mount any size bandsaw blade (a must).  

I actually got a bandsaw for cutting wood, one of those $100 deals that is a Craftsman. Works good for one to cut wood but the framing and other area's are made of plastic. Converting it to a metal cutter seems ridiculous at the very least. I'll keep it as a wood cutter. I do wood work from time to time anyways, LOL.

So, today after doing what needed done, I started work on this project. I have no clue on how I will be doing the framing. I just started cutting metal, LOL. I grab a rim and figure the center needs to come out of it. So I do that. It's a Dodge rim and is made kinda weird to just to be able to cut the center out. The outside bead is part of the hub area so I cut the bead off and the center comes out. OK, whatever, LOL. This thing is crusty and rusty, man. Had one of those chrome covers over it and when I pulled it off, way back when I pulled the tire off, had all this rust under it. A bad rim that I am giving new life too! After cutting the hub off, I beat the hell out of it with a hammer to knock the rust off of it. Good to go.
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I go to my pile of square tubing. Yup, been gathering this up all last summer while working on the trucks. I got plans for all of it and probably goona need more. Wink
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I grab this piece out of the pile without the pile falling on me, that was a trick. It don't look it but that pile if 4 feet high and 3 feet thick. This piece is about 5  1/2 feet high for the back bone . Capped on both ends but needs cleaned up a bit.
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That's all I did for know. Not too much done, but a start none the less.
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OK, here is what I bought for this project. Been sitting around for atleast 6 months. I bought 2 dolly tires because they have bearings in them and 2 metal bandsaw blades. One blade is 94 inches and the other is 64 1/2 inches. This bandsaw needs to be able to fit both of them and anything in between and even bigger or smaller. Reason being, I want to be able to buy what ever I can to keep using the bandsaw. From an industrial blade to a small easy and cheap to get blade. The electric motor is an induction 110v motor from a washing machine, LOL. Saved a couple of those through the years and are easy enough to get since I got a couple of them.
Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 20210115

I guess after posting this I will be on You Tube seeing what everyone else did on building a bandsaw. Edumacation time, I guess. I know how to do the blade tracking thing because I rebuild, maintain, and modify those polishing lathes at my job. Easy enough. I just need to see how to do the framing. Maybe get some ideas on a little coolness too, LOL.

Later.........
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mr.modified
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PostSubject: Re: Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around   Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 Icon_minitimeMon Jan 04, 2021 4:18 am

This oughta be pretty cool to see going. Keep us updated!
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prancstaman
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PostSubject: Re: Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around   Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 Icon_minitimeMon Jan 04, 2021 5:37 pm

@mr.modified Yessir! Should be pretty easy for me to do. I think you will like the next tool after this one is done. Stay tuned.
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RichieRichOverdrive
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PostSubject: Re: Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around   Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 Icon_minitimeSun Jan 10, 2021 1:14 am

If that's a hazard fraught cheapo blade, do not expect it to cut straight or last long. They tend to walk towards the inside, towards itself. I just realized a while ago that TSC carries my size blades, a bit more expensive then HF, I'm gonna try them and see if they're NFG or not. I hardly use the bandsaw anyway but when i do i prefer not to waste an inch of material from the blade walking.
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PostSubject: Re: Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around   Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 Icon_minitimeSun Jan 10, 2021 11:53 am

@RichieRichOverdrive Thanks for the heads up! Yes, the blades are from Harbor Freight. Yes, I cringed when I bought them, LOL. Figured to use them for the size mostly. The performance of the blades wasn't too much of a concern. I'm actually going to TSC in an hour and since you mentioned it, will be looking at the blades they got then. I mostly will be looking at the size on how big I can get them. I figure the bigger the longer they will last.

That's actually one of the goals of this bandsaw, to use anything I can get ahold of. Sounds like you have a bit of a challenge to get the right size blade for your bandsaw. We shall see. Thanks again.
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RichieRichOverdrive
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PostSubject: Re: Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around   Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 Icon_minitimeSun Jan 10, 2021 12:04 pm

I'm at work right now- the sizes we seem to carry are 64.5x.5 and 93x.75. i know my saw uses 64.5.
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prancstaman
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PostSubject: Re: Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around   Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 Icon_minitimeSun Jan 10, 2021 5:11 pm

Couldn't find them (bandsaw blades), must not carry them at these stores. They didn't carry the pulleys either. It's only certain stores that carry the pulleys because I asked. Oh well, I'll just order online then. I went to 2 stores too, like 70 miles all together driving.
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prancstaman
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PostSubject: Metal cutting bandsaw part 2   Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 Icon_minitimeMon Jan 11, 2021 6:53 pm

Hay People,
Yup, after a lengthy drive to 2 TSC stores, I was not able to find bandsaw blades and pulleys. Oh well. I got other sources for this stuff anyways.

OK, figure I test the motor, make sure it will last, and that it don't blow up, LOL. I test the motor with a cord plug. Plug it in, touch the wires on the motor. IT WORKS!! Thank God!!
Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 20210116

I pull out the blades and wheels. To figure out how to make the framing. Got a few ideas on how to achieve what I want. The bigger saw blades will use the x2, 10 inch wheels. I try to see how the little blade will look with the x2, 10 inch wheels but I think I will be using smaller wheels for that. I want to keep about a 12 inch work space in any setup, seems reasonable.
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Ignore the go cart wheel. It's there just for reference. I got a different wheel for the drive wheel.

OK, That's it for now. Now I can figure out the framing to make. Later..........
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TheBeal
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PostSubject: Re: Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around   Homemade tools and stuff from junk laying around - Page 6 Icon_minitimeSat Jan 16, 2021 10:08 am

Should be good. I could use a metal cutting bandsaw.
I have an older craftsman unit, aluminum frame. I think I could make it work alright for what I want to do.
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