KAL the Extended Journey.

looking really good, love the attention to detail

Thanks... right now trying to figure out my exhaust.  Not putting the old pipes back on.  They were too small. I've got some ideas, but need some pipe.  So I may be stuck for a little bit.

The updated cleaned up Kal!

Wish I took the belt off to size it.  I forgot how big it was.  I would like to have another on hand and document the size on the tractor.

Looking sharp. Are your wheels a bit toe out?

Just a tiny bit.  I just haven't got around to fixing that.  Probably part of the reason I wore out my wheel bearings so quick.  I actually fixed that today.  Thing that really pisses me off is my bottom oil seal is bad.  I've changed a few of these now and this one is the first one that leaks. Cleaned and oiled shaft before install like norm... It's a bit annoying.  I think I can change/(fix?) it without removing the engine.

Stupid china made gasket.  I have a genuine B&S one coming in the mail next week.

You dont have a groove wore in the shaft do ya?

Yeah, check for burrs and alignment of the seal in the bore.

I'll double check, I know there were no burrs and the gasket was aligned. I even made sure the gasket didn't flip a lip.  I was worried when I installed it, when it almost slid on with minimal coaxing.  I think the specs were off.  Shrunk or they sent me a gasket for the smaller HP engine.  It's not a B&S one.  I'll replace with a real gasket.

Hmm.. dropped the engine pulley, (I should spend the extra 40 minutes removing the belt for measuring). Dang me for using stock double pulley clutch that has to have linkages removed to remove the belt and pray.

Anyways.. not really sure the oil source.  That is a bit concerning.  Crank seal seemed clean.  I wiped it down and will check off and on for a seepage.

OK, I let it sit an hour and see the leak.  It is the bottom oil seal.  It is coming from around the outer edged of the seal.  I stuck a screwdriver up there and I could easily spin the seal around the crank.  Spun the crank and the seal spun with the crank.  It just isn't the right size.  

Gotta love China. My brother ordered an aftermarket coil for $12 for his oppy straight from China. Never made spark that was worth a crap.

Shoot man! I've honestly never heard of that ever happening. I've seen on old sbc's where the front main seal wears a small groove in the shaft so they make a sleeve (idk what they're called I've always called them speedy sleeves) that goes over the crank so it will seal but never the opposite... but I do understand that most new stuff is worse than the original part. Ex: The old rubber gas tank filler neck seal on my truck lasted 52 years, bought a new one and it's already dry rotting.

I hear that.  Changing chemical formulas making stuff due to EPA or Cancer if you chew on it.

I also removed the belt.  It was smaller than I remember.  It's not frayed, but it is getting stiff.  I do not have another on stock. I figured an easier way to get the belt out, only took about 5-10 minutes and didn't have to perform any magic tricks.  Just take the clutch bracket with the pulleys out and it is a breeze!

1 bolt, 1 spring, 1 pin.  No wrestling.  Don't know why I didn't do it that way to begin with.


EDIT:  Looks like the belt is stock size at 88!  I forgot about that!

On mutt you have to take the clutch linkage and drag link off to get the belt off lol. Sucks, but i don't often have to do it lol.

Maybe loctite in the seal. You'll have to use a heavy solvent to get it out though, MEK or something.

I feel like I have it easy when it comes to stuff on brutus....al I have to do is take the belt cover off, press the clutch in and give it a good yank.

Suspicions seem correct. It’s about a 16th smaller diameter and almost a 32nd thinner. Also the ridges on the edge are almost smooth on the china one.  Won’t be making that mistake again.




Also there wasn't a spring in the china one like the briggs one as you can see.

Recent update.

So, I have been thinking and I figure I need to do one of 2 things to Kal. Watching the Haspin video by @redzz02 got me thinking I am underpowered.

1. Increase the pulley size from 4.5 inch to something larger on the transaxle.  Good: It is less stress and possibly less slippage when declutching.  Easier on engine.  Bad:  I would loose my top end travel speed.
   
2. Bigger engine.  I would like a 21-25hp V-Twin, but we can all dream.  Good: More HP.  Bad: Need to find an engine and they are $$$ in my area when they pop up.  I have a partial 18hp Opposed in the building.  It would need some parts and lots of love, but that is only a 3hp net increase.  Then again, that's 3 more than now and it could buy time till I could get a larger engine.
   

Hmm...   I would even go for a 20HP Pressure lube Oppy.  LOL

Cleaned up my parts 18HP.  I think I have enough parts to get it going.  Initial observation shows it needs valve covers resealed, a new sump gasket, and possibly the rear access port resealed.  I have a new sump gasket.  Not sure if the bottom seal is bad or not.

Preclean:





Post cleanup:



What I need to make it run besides what was listed above.  Stator, Carb and Coil.  The coil looked cracked.

Well ... huh?  Not what I expected. 

That's interesting. What are the diameters?

1 inch and 7/8’s.  There is a sleeve in the pulley that I am trying to get out that brings the 7/8 to 1 inch. Looks like it was used to help the bolt hold on the pulley.

That bottom key-way is suppose to be like the upper one, but I think it got wallered out.  I'm wondering if I could carefully cut a new key-way like a normal oppy and back fill the 7/8 section with the adapter.  Using the end crank bolt for securing.

Could you weld the sleeve to the crank and carefully grind down the weld to smooth everything out?