Basically welded a Murray Widebody headlight "socket" I guess you would call it, to a Craftsman spindle pulley and plasma cut the hole in the middle to fit a 15/16 socket, and then I painted it. The flywheel bolt holds it on like it would a washer.
Now I have to re-bolt the frame together in the front right section. Shouldn't take but 30 minutes.
I've decided it's time for some real sized tires. Does anyone know where to get a set of 20 x 8 - 00.8 and a pair of 16 x 6 - 00.6 V-tread tires for a good price? I'll be snooping around the scrapyard for them and some other good stuff but in the mean time...
The hydro conquered a pretty darn steep climb today...
I think the steering bars are starting to toe out some. The front wheels are off only to where it's noticeable, but I don't like it. And when you hit bumps, one wheel can be straight while the other one is 45 degrees to the right, so some bushings musta wore out.
It has an older battery in it right now and it barely has enough power to turn the motor over even after an 18 hour charge, so I'm gonna pop the lids and see what the water levels are, and the battery itself is just covered in crap so I'ma clean it. The terminals are cracked, could that cause power loss to a battery?
Murraymountain Core Member
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The speed limit on the main road is 35MPH, so I want at least 30 out of the MST. I'll be painting the engine block, and the tranny cases. Not sure on the colors yet, but we'll see. I'm very limited to what I can do since my main concern is the MM, but it will come back slowly. I still need to fab up a shifter so it ain't gonna be moving under its own power until I get a welder.
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So, the MM20 is broken, and I have no good reason. The MST went back into "The Green Machine", and the hydro went to the spare parts pile because I don't wanna take the time to put it back in. So now, the MM20 just takes up space in the garage. The Craps-man is too boring to drive around. So is the Green Machine, the Craftsman is trashed, and the fab shop hasn't done a thing to the MM. So my last resort... The golf cart................... At least it's fast.
golf cart...... BORING
Anyway, plans for this thing are piling up every day... Tranny swap, Doc Lock, independent front suspension, tire change, new hood latch, a crap load of wiring for some AWESOME additions, reinforce all steering parts, reinforce and make the frame solid, ridiculous exhaust, etc.
When this is done, Cowgirl Motorsports can stick his "DON'T USE A MURRAY" up his butt!
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Well, the front end rebuild has started, along with some headlight re-positioning. I'll be adding a couple other lights to it too. As for the suspension I am a complete newbie to that scenario. No idea as to what shocks I'll be using, or which ones are the best option, or if I'm using radius arms and whatnot, or how to redo the steering. Heck, I don't even know what some of the things yall talk about are. For instance: Way back when suspension was a part of the Mountain Murray's plan, I had no clue what radius arms were until I looked them up. I'll learn as I go I guess. The plans for the front axle are the same as the MM's were, cut out the hole in the middle and split the axle in 2 halves, and make a pivot point for each axle. But anyway, something to keep AK up at night lol!
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Age : 48 Join date : 2016-09-06 Points : 13873 Posts : 9802 Location : Oklahoma
I can tell you through experience. Having suspension vs no suspension is a big difference. Even though Kal has no seat spring, the front suspension on it took all the impact when I was at Haspin this year. Because of that, I plan on doing suspension on my red murray as well.
That, and it is fun to do. Its a sense of accomplishment.
No time to explain, but basically, I tore it down to frame for a good cleaning. Now Ima reinforce the crap out of it, and change every self-tapping bolt in it. Also gotta rework the wiring.
Anyway, parts piles...
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So what key switch do you have? If it’s a classic Indak one it should have terminals marked as the following: s-solenoid M-ignition coil L-lights b- battery (also connect to charging wire) G-ground
All you do is run wires from the components directly to the correct pin on your ignition switch and you’ve bypassed the safety switches and cleaned up your wiring at the same time.
Okay, so I'm keeping the original ignition switch.
Mine also has "Y". What does "Y" stand for? Will these instructions above work on mine?
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L and Y are both for lights. The AC charge coil goes to Y, and the light power comes off L, and the coil powers the lights. This will mean that you can't have your lights on unless the engine is running, and the brightness of the lights will vary in the engine RPM. I'd recommend not having your lights hooked up to the key switch that way, and instead having a toggle switch, with the voltage coming from the battery post of your solenoid.
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Well, I gotta say, now is not the time to mess with 'er. I should have left it alone until I can completely focus on this project. I have to finish the Beater Murray, get a decent welder AND learn how to use it, school starts in 2 weeks, I've still got tractors from this mowing season to get fixed up and be rid of, the Scat Rat is coming with a new year and that's creeping up fast, I'm looking at ANOTHER project not even related to this stuff, And to top it all off, the MM needs to be finished ASAP.
So, as much as I hate to, I'm gonna have to put this one aside for now. At least until the build off is over.... I already miss it.