Murray CCT [pre-build]

Not the same style as Doc's.  I'll have to look into options or just leave it unlocked, but I am this far.  I need to check anyways.

Started my cleanup.  There is some staining and some pitting.  I think I will be ok as the pitting is shallow surface pitting.  This one is half done.



This one is done.  Still some staining, but the shift fork slides up and down with a smooth clean motion.  Check the other one in the background.  That is about what this one looked like to begin with.



Shift pins complete with forks reinstalled with gear selector balls inserted.



Gears all reinstalled and ready to go!  



Now to bust into that Diff to check it out!  I will do that later this week.  My only fear is a couple of the bolts are in the rust area.  Hopefully they do not break off on me.

Looking good so far mighty!

WOW that thing is beefy. That thing shouldn't be going anywhere for a while....Unless youre Rich (sorry, had to)

I'm super excited to see this thing play out mighty, you going to paint over that beautiful patina or you gonna leave it be?

I do plan to paint.

Thats okay, I'm sure there will still be some cool patina in the next Build-Off....



Hahaha.

Hehe. We could build twins. Lol.

Busted open the diff. Can't do a straight axle as it is tapered. Looks good inside though.

Looking at Doc's 820 locker, I think I can do that. I just don't have a drill press for drilling out the diff hubs.

Although, I was looking at them. Mine appear to have brass bushings in them to reduce the 1 inch down to 7/8. hmm. I'll have to confirm this later.

I'm going to try the fozzy first.  Also, for you metalsmiths out there, this would be super easy I would think to lock.  Melt up some metal and pour it down the hole on either side and fill it up, locked.
LOL

Lol, that'd be a cool way to do it but you wouldn't ever be able to get it apart! Good choice with the fozzy locker. Way easy to do, and hard to screw up. Make sure not to get any weld splatter on the splines lol, makes it a pain to get back together. And don't quench them after welding, don't want them getting brittle and cracking in half(not sure that would happen, don't wanna find out lol).

I'm thinking going with the lock with the smaller gear first.

I think I may have come up with an additional idea that I can put in the locker to help take out the slack some.  A bit of a fozzy locker assist.  I am off tomorrow.  If I am feeling well I'll fab it up.  I just need to find a 1.5 square tube for the Idea.  I just need 1 foot to make this work.  My spare gears should be here tomorrow about 330 that I will weld up.  Who knows maybe it will all weld up nice together?    Maybe call it the Mighty Locker Assist.  HAHAHAHA...

Just going to stick with the fozzy. Kept it simple and put on a little extra weld to take out the slack. Almost snug as a bug. Clean up a little more slag and I'll be buttoning it back up!

All buttoned back up.  Turned out to be no slop in the lock.  That makes me happy.



So, that input shaft is 3/4 but my 3/4 pulley I had on hand did not fit. I checked the ID of my pulley and it was more like 7/8ths? Hmm....

Well that would mean you have a 7/8ths diameter pulley and not a 3/4

LOL, it was a 7/8's pulley. I misread 3/4.

So wait, am I on board here? You thought it was a 3/4" bore pulley but it was a 7/8"? Yeah I can see why that wouldn't exactly work hahaha.

No, no, no. He thought it 3/4 pulley, but when he tried to put it on, it didn't fit. He thought he was wrong after that but turned out he was just mistaken. Turned out to be a 7/8 pulley.

haha... yeah the 3/4 was on the pulley but as like a part number. LOL I misread it.

You got lucky with that locker, mine has quite a bit of slop. Maybe I didn't build the welds high enough. How's she shift? And how'd ya seal it up? I'd think these would have gaskets from the factory, but I might be wrong, lol.

I did put the weld up high. Shifts smooth. When I busted it apart the gaskets were not damaged and still looked good. I'll see how that goes when I add oil back to the transaxle. I see in the manual 64 oz of 80-90.

Wrapping up the transaxle.  Just need some oil.  It will be put to the side for later when the frame is done.





I still need to get a new pulley as I am doing a pulley swap.

I gave the brake disk a vinegar bath for the past couple days.

Before:



After a couple days in the vinegar bath:



Only other thing I may do for now is remove the wiring and put aside some connectors and components I can reuse. At that point I will probably stop as I would not want to do too much. I know I am not too close to 50% but I don't want to have too much fun now! LOL That and the garage will start to get colder.



Then after a quick wipe down:

Hey Mighty, since that brake disc is on a regular keyed shaft, why not order a regular size go kart one and maybe even use a hydraulic caliper? You'd definitely have some stopping power then.

I am betting this one has excellent stopping power. 6 inch disk with break pads that are huge. Almost the size of the rear disks on the Impala. I'll try to get a pic when I think of it.

Ah, ok. Really it's the force you can put on the pads, not the size of the rotor(although the bigger size does give a lot more leverage, letting you put less force on the rotor). I can lock up the wheels on Mutt, because of the crazy amount of force I can put on the pads with the 24" lever. The little pads don't last more than a month with heavy use though, lol.

Richie, bud, NOTHING lasts more than a month for you

@CraftsmanQuad19 wrote:

Richie, bud, NOTHING lasts more than a month for you

pssssssshhhhhhh, that's what you think. the front tires on mutt are probably as old as Doc

edit: Mighty, what size keyway is in that brake disc? Looks more like 1/8", not the 1/4" you usually find with 1" shafts. And is it a woodruff key & keyseat on the shaft?